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Re: top end

Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2018 8:02 pm
by 56G80S
Mick D is spot on. Grind in and......

Petrol in the combustion chamber and see if anything "leaks" out.

That's what I've done.

Johnny B

Re: top end

Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2018 8:43 pm
by SPRIDDLER
I always do it the other way round, one valve at a time: Stand cyl head up and pour petrol into the inlet/zorst port (i.e. fill it up) as it's easier to see petrol leaking into the head than creeping from the combustion chamber and along the inlet/zorst port. You can't get much petrol in the combustion chamber and it's not easy to see whether it's just one valve (which one?) or both that are leaking.
(Obviously if it comes running out of the valve guides you've another job to do).

Re: top end

Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2018 9:25 pm
by red_dog49
Hi, yes I will clean up, re grind the valve seats, fit new springs and re build.
Easy said, do you really need a spring compression tool or can you get it done without.
Rob

Re: top end

Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2018 9:51 pm
by SPRIDDLER
You can do it without a tool, it needs the knack rather than great strength, although your new springs might be a bit of a struggle.
Have a look at pages 27 and 28 of the link below. It's to a H/Weight workshop manual but still relevant for your needs. I've used the H/Weight w/shop manual as the text and pics are very much clearer than many others (and I'm not familiar with the L/W manuals).
http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Owners_m ... ingles.pdf

Re: top end

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 9:24 am
by Mick D
Hi

I re-fitted my springs without the use of the tool, not too difficult - I engaged the spring in the collar and located the tangs onto the base plate with the help of pliers, (as the misplaced spring in your previous photo),then just pushed down on the coil part of the spring and it slid into place.

Regards Mick

Re: top end

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 9:29 am
by Janet
SPRIDDLER wrote:You can do it without a tool, it needs the knack rather than great strength, although your new springs might be a bit of a struggle
According to a professional bike 'worker-oner,' some new springs are so strong that it's almost impossible to fit them without some serious equipment. I don't know whether they're being made for lightweights.

Re: top end

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 10:07 am
by SPRIDDLER
In case you are unaware, the hairpin valve spring fitting tool is available from a couple of sources - here at our spares dep't:

http://www.amoc-parts.com/store/comersu ... duct=21316

Re: top end

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 6:36 pm
by Ozmadman
red_dog49 wrote:Hi, yes I will clean up, re grind the valve seats, fit new springs and re build.
Easy said, do you really need a spring compression tool or can you get it done without.
Rob
Think you may find it impossible to get new springs and if you do please tell us where you got them from as I could do with a new set as well

Re: top end

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 5:26 pm
by red_dog49
yep your right, only need one,anyone got a hens teeth they can do without.
regards
Rob.

Re: top end

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 5:34 pm
by Mick D
Hi

I'm not 100% sure but I think springs can be heat treated again after re-forming - may be worth a call to a manufacturer to discuss.

Regards Mick