AJS & Matchless Owners Club

dada wrote:I filled up the float camber with a siringe from bleeding valve.........

Not sure where you found the 'bleeding valve'. Are you referring to the float tickler?
You mentioned filling the float bowl with a syringe. Was there no fuel getting there already?
Also check that after the rebuild you have set up the valve timing correctly.
If you place your hand over the carb mouth you should feel suction on the inlet stroke.

EDIT: (Wrong link given - now deleted )

Hi

If you have a syringe try opening the throttle slide and dripping five drops of fuel into the carb near the needle valve, (but not down the needle jet), almost close the throttle slide and kick the engine over - did it fire?

If yes you probably have a fuel blockage - undo the carb banjo with the fuel selected on - does fuel leak out? Yes - blockage is in the carb

If not repeat the process a couple of times more - did it fire? - Yes see above.

If not confirm you have a spark and that the plug is now wet.

Plug dry - check for blockage in the tank system, (tap strainer / tap / fuel pipe).

No spark - fault find ignition system

If yes to both you most probably have a timing issue. It is easier to check the ignition timing than valve so go there first.

When setting the ignition timing ensure you are on the compression stroke.

Have fun getting to know the bike, all good experience for if/when it breaks down on a run

Regards Mick

Thanks to all for assistance will try and keep you posted

Can I use that timing guide for lightweight as it is for heavy weight

Hi

LW ignition timing is detailed on pg 40 of the 57-64 Workshop Instruction Manual, valve timing pg 41.

Regards Mick

dada wrote:Can I use that timing guide for lightweight as it is for heavy weight

Easy way to do the timing.. Get a piece of thickish wire and put a small bend in the top (so it won't drop down the plug hole!) set the engine a TDC (comp stroke both valves closed so the rods are loose) put the wire into the plug hole until it touches the top of the piston and mark it. Take it out and measure one quarter of an inch ABOVE your first mark and make a second mark, this will indicate 1/4" BTDC. Wind the engine back a bit and then forward again to bring the piston up to 1/4" BTDC using the upper mark on your wire. Turn the ADV/RTD unit fully advanced and wedge it open with something then adjust your points until they are just open (I use a multi-meter with a buzzer on it set to continuity which will stop buzzing as soon as the points open) better than a fag paper. Don't forget to remove the wedge from the ADV/RTD unit.

dada wrote:Can I use that timing guide for lightweight as it is for heavy weight

No. (Apologies. My brain automatically thinks Heavyweight engines).

Will do after I check carb

Which product best to clean carb ?

dada wrote:Which product best to clean carb ?

Probably best to dismantle it and clean it properly to make sure every tiny hole is clear. Other than that there are a variety of spray "carb cleaners" on the market, can't see there would be much to choose between them