brake and igntion upgrade

eagle56 · Post by **eagle56** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 7:37 pm

how do I improve braking and the ignition of my Ajs 18s

Biscuit · Post by **Biscuit** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 8:36 pm

eagle56 · Post by **eagle56** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 8:54 pm

The front is non existant and the back suffered from fade the other day.

it would be nice and little more reasuring to have more stopping power.

I've been looking at pictures to see the positioning of the front brake lever and it varies on different bikes.
Mine also has play on the lever spindle not sure if this would reduce pulling power.

regarding the ignition it starts , the lights work
but I would like a better horn.

Don Madden · Post by **Don Madden** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 9:06 pm

Regarding the horn, do as the rest of us: Take a deep breath & shout expletives at encroaching Volvo drivers.

Alternatively, pattern horns for Volkswagens get more attention or the portable rattlecan horns for marine use will frighten evil spirits.

Cheers, Don.

SPRIDDLER · Post by **SPRIDDLER** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 9:21 pm

Re front brake.
Did you centralise the shoes by holding the brake lever 'on' before tightening the backplate nut?
Often the shoes only make contact on their high spots before they've fully 'bedded in' (or worn out). You may find it helps to take the shoes out and file down the high spots to maximise the shoes' contact area.
They'll never be half as good as your Honda but then you'll rarely be going at half its speed.
Did the rear brake actually fade or was it merely (merely! ) a symptom of your rising panic?

eagle56 · Post by **eagle56** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 10:53 pm

They seem to become less effective in slow moving heavy traffic.
Must admit I feel more comfortable at speed with lots of distance to plan things more.

Biscuit · Post by **Biscuit** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 11:53 pm

If you file down brake linings or blow dust out of the drums TAKE CARE, if the linings are original (unlikely) or old (probable) then they may contain asbestos.

TommoT · Post by **TommoT** » Thu Mar 29, 2007 12:04 am

...if by front brake lever, you mean actuating arm, then the angle between the this and the brake expander, is important to achieve the necessary force applied to the brake shoes. If, when the shoes make contact with the drum, the angle between actuating arm and expander is less than 90 degrees, you can expect sufficient pressure. If the angle becomes more than 90 degrees you can expect reduced force. This usually means that the shoes are worn down or on high mileage machines wear on the thrust pins or expander.

lawrence · Post by **lawrence** » Thu Mar 29, 2007 2:34 am

My twin starts better with electronic ignition but the EI takes a massive 35w peak draw (Boyer's own figures). I am returning to the mag as soon as I can get it refitted as I'd rather have a 55w main beam than the 35w. Also don't want to be dependent on the dynamo

Might have to go to the gym as Don suggested previously

Centralising the brake is vital and makes a huge difference (don't ask how I know). Also is the drum round?

There was talk of making the shoes floating to improve the performance. any one know about that?Edited by - lawrence on 29 Mar 2007 01:36:39 AM

eagle56 · Post by **eagle56** » Thu Mar 29, 2007 6:34 pm

Not sure what you mean by the activator arm and expander.

the activater arm on mine when the brake is pulled on tight is neigh in line with the brake cable , i've tried moving it around but its not on a spline and moves too much and the cable will not reach.