electrical query

[SPRIDDLER]

Oh well I like a challenge plus what's the worst that can happen burn out a few wires

Some of this might come in handy.

Smokekit2.jpg

[Steve]

[shaunstaples]

I agree with everything said about replacement switches, everything seems to be Chinese made these days and not made like we want it to be. I’ve fitted a £7 aftermarket switch for indicators with a horn and high low beam, keeping the original light switch. The wires come with bullets on the end, but when you strip them they are much thinner than the insulation looks!
That said, they are thick enough for led bulbs, so no drama. I’ve also gone to 12v for availability of bulbs, but since seen 6v led is available.

[Steve]

Thanks for your insights guys, as I've said I'm no electrician, I've removed the front light, horn dip switch so I can see what connects to what. From the comments I have the option of switching to led bulbs thus reducing the load on the wiring. Or maybe changing the wires on the replacement switches.
If I decided to go down the changing the wires route what sort of amperage wire should I be looking to use

[SPRIDDLER]

Lamps 1953 b.jpg

The main beam will be the greatest current handled by the switch.
If you're still running the standard 6v filament lamps the max current in the wiring will be 8.8 amps and that's including brief illumination of the brake light. (The current drawn by the headlight my rise a bit for an instant when first switched on).
I would fit a 10 amp fuse and use the switch with its current wiring and see how it goes. If the switch wiring capability is too little either the headlamp won't reach full brightness or the switch wiring will heat up and blow the fuse (or both). If uprating the switch wiring I'd use 12 or 15 amp wire so that in the event of a short circuit it will be protected by the 10 amp fuse. However, you may find that 15 amp wire is too cumbersome to fit/solder to the fiddly connection points inside the switch.
Bearing in mind that the switch is probably designed for modern bikes with 12v systems with perhaps a 60 watt headlamp and a 20 watt rear lamp it will be designed to carry at least 6.7 amps. (80 watts divided by the 12v voltage). If the switch has provision for indicators that's another (intermittent) 40 watts (2 x 20watt lamps). If your bike has been converted to 12 volts the current drawn will be half that at 6 volts and none of bike's wiring or the switch wiring will have to be altered. However, uprating your dynamo to 12 volts has pro's and con's and is another discussion altogether which you will find in various Archive articles.
If you fit LED's the existing switch wiring will be more than adequate since the current drawn by them will be perhaps a quarter of that with filament lamps.

Good luck reassembling the switch.

Haynes Sprid (640x533).jpg

[Steve]

Lamps 1953 b.jpg

The main beam will be the greatest current handled by the switch.
If you're still running the standard 6v filament lamps the max current in the wiring will be 8.8 amps and that's including brief illumination of the brake light. (The current drawn by the headlight my rise a bit for an instant when first switched on).
I would fit a 10 amp fuse and use the switch with its current wiring and see how it goes. If the switch wiring capability is too little either the headlamp won't reach full brightness or the switch wiring will heat up and blow the fuse (or both). If uprating the switch wiring I'd use 12 or 15 amp wire so that in the event of a short circuit it will be protected by the 10 amp fuse. However, you may find that 15 amp wire is too cumbersome to fit/solder to the fiddly connection points inside the switch.
Bearing in mind that the switch is probably designed for modern bikes with 12v systems with perhaps a 60 watt headlamp and a 20 watt rear lamp it will be designed to carry at least 6.7 amps. (80 watts divided by the 12v voltage). If the switch has provision for indicators that's another (intermittent) 40 watts (2 x 20watt lamps). If your bike has been converted to 12 volts the current drawn will be half that at 6 volts and none of bike's wiring or the switch wiring will have to be altered. However, uprating your dynamo to 12 volts has pro's and con's and is another discussion altogether which you will find in various Archive articles.
If you fit LED's the existing switch wiring will be more than adequate since the current drawn by them will be perhaps a quarter of that with filament lamps.

Good luck reassembling the switch.


Haynes Sprid (640x533).jpg

cheers Nev after looking at the switches and the amount of work involved in changing all the wires have decided that going the 6volt led replacement bulbs makes much more sense.
I'll wire it all up how I think it should go and quickly try it with the old bulbs first just to confirm it works then just pop the led's in.

now while I'm here I replaced my old battery with 2 Lucas LSLA4-6 battery's wired to give 6 volts and 8 amps now they are sealed lead acid no breather holes but on removing them before playing with the electrics there was I thought condensation all over them but on closer examination I could smell the acid, surely something is amiss?

[SPRIDDLER]

I imagine that even sealed AGM maintenance-free batteries must have a safety vent to release gas in the event of abusive over charging or an extended short circuit (e.g. when a fuse in the circuit wiring doesn't blow).
The vent may be sacrificial so may not reset afterwards but I don't really know.
Household ammonia is the stuff to use to clean up/neutralise battery acid.

[Steve]

I can't see any sort of vent, I did think maybe over charging so have printed off the wiring for the dvr2 regulator so I can check that it's wired up correctly. And I suppose I'll need to check how much is going to the battery when it running, do I check volts or amps going to the battery and what reading should it be.
It will be some time before I can update on all this as will need to wait for pension before ordering and have a few little trips planned over to the big island that will cost a bit as well, it's all money going out at the moment but hay ho it's got to end sometime.
He says fingers crossed

[SPRIDDLER]

I suppose I'll need to check how much is going to the battery when it running, do I check volts or amps going to the battery and what reading should it be.

The DVR2 is just a voltage regulator and doesn't 'control' the current (amps) being drawn so check the voltage at the battery terminals before running the engine and again with the engine running. You should find it higher when the engine's running - probably around around 7 volts.

The current (amps) will vary depending upon the load (watts) of the switched-on electrical items- e.g higher current with the lights on than with them off. Your 1953 dynamo (in perfect condition on a good day) will have a max output of 42 watts at 6v which is a max current of 7 amps.
As a matter of interest and since you have mag ignition why did you fit two batteries.......?

[Steve]

I suppose I'll need to check how much is going to the battery when it running, do I check volts or amps going to the battery and what reading should it be.

The DVR2 is just a voltage regulator and doesn't 'control' the current (amps) being drawn so check the voltage at the battery terminals before running the engine and again with the engine running. You should find it higher when the engine's running - probably around around 7 volts.

The current (amps) will vary depending upon the load (watts) of the switched-on electrical items- e.g higher current with the lights on than with them off. Your 1953 dynamo (in perfect condition on a good day) will have a max output of 42 watts at 6v which is a max current of 7 amps.
As a matter of interest and since you have mag ignition why did you fit two batteries.......?

Ah you've forgotten I fitted a thorspark Electronic Ignition and although it draws only a small amount of power if the dynamo stops working it will run from the battery and although it would probably not be an issue as I don't go that far. Using two batteries wired in parallel gives twice the running time before the battery runs out. So just an extra safety net really as although I was never a boy scout I try to be prepared.