adz25 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 16, 2024 1:18 pm
Is there any non corroded sections on the front stanchions? I say this because I couldn't get any rear jampot stanchions, but there was just enough clean material on the 1 1/8 front stanchions to make up a pair of rear ones on my last project. Easy enough to turn them up in a home lathe, the correct high tensile material too. The only difficult bit was turning the Whitform thread which attaches to the jampot top casting.
Worth a look anyhow..
Adam
Adam,
Sorry I missed your reply. That's an interesting idea. Are the jampot stanchions exactly the same ID and OD as the fork stanchions? As you say they will need threads cut but it's doable.
No problem, as long as your forks are 1 and 1/8 yes I believe so. All I had to do was cut the bush retaining slots, relieve the inside diameter at the base, drill the oil transfer holes and cut the Whitford thread. Hope this works out for you
A question about the Burman gearbox cover. Should the square section O ring on the gear indicator shaft be mounted on the shaft inboard of the cover or in the recess outside the cover where the shaft come through? If it is mounted on the inside, as shown in one of the photos, it will be very compressed when tightening the cover studs because it holds the cover about 2mm off the kick start case.
2024-01-21 14.56.43.jpg
2024-01-21 14.57.10.jpg
Also, is there a technique for getting the kickstart return spring mounted? It seems awkward with the inside tang of the spring mounted on the splines of the shaft and the outside ring mounted on the cover.
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I think the seal fits on the outside (but its a long time since I did that). The K/S spring is easy. When dismantling don't remove the kickstart, just unwind it. When reassembling put the spring in place and wind it up with the kickstart. Hold it to the gearlever and put the cover back on with a new gasket.
Dave
Adam,
Yes the old fork stanchions are the same OD and ID as the jampot damper tubes. But they are just as pitted so we are investigating a metal spray and grinding option. Otherwise I see that there are new jampot damper tubes available from the Club spares shop.
Turning my attention to the assembly of the fork crown onto the headstock. Can someone please point me in the direction of a clear diagram showing the ball races? The spares manuals show two races called "race ball for fork crown" and "race ball for handlebar lug" but I imagined that there would be an upper and lower race for each of these two with the balls in between. Or do the balls run directly in the grooves on the headstock?
