G5 oil Info

Information relating to the Matchless G5 or AJS Model 8 350cc Lightweight
fredflanagan
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Location: cornwall UK

G5 oil Info

Post by fredflanagan »

HELP!!! After 30 years of Japanese I've come to the dark side and bought British!....a '62 G5. What have I done?
Can some one give me a way ahead with checking oil levels, what oils and quantities I need in what and anything else they want to divulge.
An I thought these 'classics' would lead to a simpler life.....silly me.
Any help/encouragement would be very much appreciated.

Cheers
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Merlin
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Location: BLACKPOOL UK

G5 oil Info

Post by Merlin »

Think I will go on holiday
Chemists do it with test tubes
fredflanagan
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G5 oil Info

Post by fredflanagan »

a most helpfull reply.....maybe I'll stick to the Japs.
SPRIDDLER
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G5 oil Info

Post by SPRIDDLER »

Welcome, Fred.
S'o.k. You've given Merlin the vapours that's all, mentioning oil. It's become the pasty in the room (as we say up-country) these past ten years.
I feel I should intervene drekly to let you kernow that we're a helpful bunch of kermudgeons, before further Goonsilly replies are offered.
Have a look here (or browse around the otherinfo on that site) you may find an Owners Manual and technical info for yours or a similar model.

http://archives.jampot.dk/Book/Owners_manuals/

You're welcome.Edited by - SPRIDDLER on 03 Nov 2010 12:03:07 PM
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
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Merlin
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G5 oil Info

Post by Merlin »

Chemists do it with test tubes
fredflanagan
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Location: cornwall UK

G5 oil Info

Post by fredflanagan »

proper job, that's just what I needed....now where did I put those AF / UNC / UNF / whitworth / BA spanners.....Japs are so much simpler.
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BigAl350
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Location: BERKSHIRE UK

G5 oil Info

Post by BigAl350 »

Hiya, nice to have another Lightweight owner here! I have a 1960 G5, as well as two AJS Model 8s.

Basically...you need a low/no detergent monograde oil for your G5. The so-called "oil filter" fitted is just a weedy bit of gauze, with a bit of felt around it if you're lucky...so in my opinion (and many others but oil is an emotive subject as you will see!), using a modern, high-detergent oil is not a good idea as the filter just can't cope with removing the nasty bits and lumps these modern oils seek out - it's better not to get too many of them in the oil in the first place, hence the low detergent thing - but ensure you change the oil REGULARLY and clean the magnetic filter bolt too.

So use a good-quality modern monograde oil, like Golden Film or Morris brand - although these are monogrades, they are modern in as much as they are good quality with excellent additives. The viscosity you need will change with outside temperatures - SAE 50 is OK for the engine in the warmer weather ("above 50F" says the manual), whilst the manual says to use SAE 30 for 32-50F and SAE 20 for "extreme cold under 32F".

You can also use SAE 50 for the gearbox (or use SAE 30 for "extreme cold") - VERY IMPORTANT! The gearbox takes 3 pints of oil - always ensure it is full as the gears are located towards the top of the box and any significant level-drop can cause them to wear out quickly...Some people also use EP90 for the gearbox, though there was a scare about modern EP 90 affecting phosphor-bronze bushes a while ago (search forum to enjoy this). You can also use the engine oil for the chaincase - well worth keeping an eye on the level there if you don't want a knackered primary chain...

Do you have a copy of the owner's manual? If not, I can send you a digital copy and anything else you may need. Also, please feel free to contact me to discuss any other aspects of these delightful bikes!

AlEdited by - BigAl350 on 03 Nov 2010 2:14:33 PM
Al Bolton, G4VSQ
1960 Matchless G5 (Off the road for now, maybe for sale?)
1960 AJS Model 8 (Just passed MoT)
1962 AJS Model 8 (Still lurking in a Devon shed in bits)
itma
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G5 oil Info

Post by itma »

many of this lot here are simple.

only a simple person thinks running an obselete 50 year old machine is simple.

we are here to hold your hand and mock, that is the price of free abundant advice.
If you wish for flattery and and high expense while being advisd how to spend your cash PM me for my Paypal details
fredflanagan
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Joined: Tue Oct 19, 2010 4:17 pm
Location: cornwall UK

G5 oil Info

Post by fredflanagan »

Many thanks BigAl350, that info was very helpful. Next 'stupid' question....how do I check the levels for the engine oil? as there is no dipstick (or is that me??) or fill level drain bolt. As for the primary chain, I removed the forward of the two large circular inspection holes in the LHS chain case and about a half pint of oil poured out, surely this is too much? So how do I establish the correct oil level for the chain?
A copy of the owners manual would be very much appreciated, I would be more than happy to cover your costs if you could send me one.
Many regards....until the next 'stupid' question.
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BigAl350
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G5 oil Info

Post by BigAl350 »

No problem...I'll send you an electronic copy of the owner's guide, or a link to it, which will answer many of your questions!

No, there's no engine oil level dipstick. The manual says the oil level should be "1 inch below the filler cap orifice" (a little vague!) after you have briefly run the bike to scavenge any oil lying in the sump. I find that if you look into the engine oil filler orifice, you'll see the smallish oil return hole (check that oil returns from it before every ride) and this is a useful datum point, as it's at about 1 inch below the top of the orifice, so I tend to fill the bike to have a level equal to the hole. The engine takes 2.5 pints (not as much as the gearbox, you'll note).

Sounds like the primary chain case was well overfilled. Remove the lower cap and look inside (torch useful) and the oil level should be "just above the bottom run of the chain" (I interpret this to mean the bottom run of the chain should be just dipping into the oil. But basically, this means in reality the level is almost level with the inspection plug so you'll know when it's overfilled because oil will run on your feet! The capacity of the primary chain case is 1 pint of (usually) SAE 50. The primary chain on the G5 should be an endless, duplex type. The other cap is for filling the case with oil (though I tend to just use the oil can and the lower hole) and it also reveals the clutch adjuster when removed.

I'd STRONGLY suggest that you change all oils on the bike, unless you are really certain it's been done recently, and properly (doesn't sound like it!).

If you can send me a Private Message, I will get the manual and other useful info I have collected off to you or just look here for it: <http://archives.jampot.dk/Book/Owners_m ... Manual.pdf>

Christian's archive (here): http://archives.jampot.dk/ is an amazing resource - have a search around it and you'll find much of interest, including the workshop manual, etc.

Cheers,
Al


---------------------------------------------------------------
Many thanks BigAl350, that info was very helpful. Next 'stupid' question....how do I check the levels for the engine oil? as there is no dipstick (or is that me??) or fill level drain bolt. As for the primary chain, I removed the forward of the two large circular inspection holes in the LHS chain case and about a half pint of oil poured out, surely this is too much? So how do I establish the correct oil level for the chain?
A copy of the owners manual would be very much appreciated, I would be more than happy to cover your costs if you could send me one.
Many regards....until the next 'stupid' question.
Al Bolton, G4VSQ
1960 Matchless G5 (Off the road for now, maybe for sale?)
1960 AJS Model 8 (Just passed MoT)
1962 AJS Model 8 (Still lurking in a Devon shed in bits)
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