Clutch Problems

[CharlesDP]

Can of Worms time

I am having trouble with the clutch on my '53 18s, if I adjust the cable one way the camplate on the gearbox end of the cable goes over centre and locks so I have to poke a screwdriver through the oil filler and knock it back again. and if I adjust the cable the other way the clutch then drags.

I have changed the two cam plates as well as the ball bearings, But may be I have the wrong hand lever as I read somewhere that the AMC ones are a different measurement to some for sale, If I have, could this be the problem and if so how do I check that I have the correct ones?
Thanks Charles

[Rob Harknett]

I guess you first. Let off the clutch cable adjustment fully, or better still disconnect the cable. Assuming you have the correct thrust rod, adjust this via the centre sloted screw on the clutch untill free movement has been taken up. Then lock up via the thin nut. Make sure when doing this the centre screw does not move or it will tighten up the thrust rod adjustment. Some gear boxes have a long and short thrust rod seperated with a ball bearing same dia as the thrust rod

[Rob Harknett]

Opps have you used the correct size bearings that you changed & have correct cable. Any lever should work. The only differerences I am aware of is hole centres between the lever screw and nipple hole. Some how I recall this as 7/8 " some hard to find levers its more, 1" perhaps, these levers give added leverage and helps if you don't have a firm grip.

[Groily]

Reckon Rob's spot on. Cable isn't the bit to be playing with, yet. Get pushrod set up right, with or without extra ball(s) designed to get the overall length right. When that's set right, the lever that operates the '3 ball sandwich' should be in such a position that it can be pulled far enough for the clutch to release fully (and engage fully as well of course the other way) without being forced beyond its operating travel. Then it's the cable - whose adjustment is there for cable stretch only, not for setting the pushrod up right.
If things refuse to come right, then maybe the clutch plates need looking at, or there is some error in assembly of clutch drum on mainshaft, or there is something impeding the operation of the pressure plate or of the operating mechanism at the other side.
7/8ths levers are right I think, and make a big difference to lightness of operation. But even if the pivot centres are an inch, it should be poss to get the '3 ball sandwich' to work without going over-centre and graunching, clicking, or sticking fast.Edited by - Groily on 13 Aug 2011 6:52:14 PM

[TommoT]

You may have double trouble here. If the cable is adjusted to turn the camplate just up the ramps (indents/holes) this will be enough to lift the pressure plate and release the clutch plates. Further tightnening of the cable will only pull the camplate too far and provide no further lift.

If the cable is too loosely adjusted the camplate may not provide enough lift. But if the clutch basket and plates are in good condition, and if they move f r e e l y back and forth on the splines and tabs in the basket, it takes surprisingly little lift to disengage the clutch. In the technical section on this site, you will even find a clutch release modification, to make the clutch even lighter, that provides less lift than the original setup. But it still works!

So check the general condition of tabs and splines. I recently fitted a new basket to my clutch, and what a revelation that was. No more plates sticking, no crunching noise when selection first gear after a standstill and so forth. Absolutely worth the investment.

[CharlesDP]

Thanks for the info I think I will start by adjusting the rod and go from there.

Now do I dare ask That Man Again how to fit the chain case - no I don't think so, he might turn more aggressive than the ferel steet mobs we saw last week.

[rex.webb]

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7/8INCH Centre of Nipple to Pivot Bolt Centre.
That is the lever you want .
RIDE wqith CARE and LIVE LONG to ENJOY your BIKES.