Primary chain correct number links for Model 18?

Mckorkins · Post by **Mckorkins** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:28 pm

You're right, Robin. I always used to carry a spare link on my Trident and Bonnie before that. It was secured with electrical tape to part of the wiring loom under the seat. I've done the same with the Ajay and carry a spare link taped on the inside of the toolbox. I've also got an original Dunlop puncture repair kit as well (complete with chalk), but have no intention of using it, rather than a can of Finilec!

Rex, I'll ride my bike when it stops raining oil from the chaincase and not before! Ongoing rectification in progress!

Just the vagaries of good ol' British engineering logic I suspect, Albert!Edited by - Mckorkins on 29 Apr 2012 12:31:15 PM

paul knapp · Post by **paul knapp** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 4:09 pm

quote: I'll ride my bike when it stops raining oil from the chaincase and not before! Ongoing rectification in progress!

....chasing pretty maids in the meadow sounds far more appealing to me! .......though what you do, or what you thought you could once do, should you catch one, would definately be 'in yer dreams'

rex.webb · Post by **rex.webb** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 8:07 pm

Well its worth catching one to find out ?
Now links and chains ???
Ride with CARE and LIVE LONG to ENJOY your bikes and scooters.

bjork · Post by **bjork** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 10:13 pm

quote:
Why on odd number of links, 67, for a 500 cc? The 350 cc has an even number, 66. The difference in engine sprocket size is too small to make both numbers even.
Albert

On my 500 the standard sprocket sizes dictate a 67 link chain, if I fit the 350 sprocket for sidecar use it needs the 66 link. If you try the 'wrong' chain on either sprocket you end up with the gear box moved to and extreme end of it's adjustment and the rear chain is then all wrong as well. (I've tried it to save time and ended up with a set for each application)
Everything lines up nicely with the 'correct' sizes You can make it work in an emergency perhaps but it is a poor compromise.

Mckorkins · Post by **Mckorkins** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 10:37 pm

The chain splitter is definitely coming out of the toolbox having checked the engine and chainwheel sprockets have the right number of teeth 21/40 respectively. Back to 67 links it's going to be!

I just wonder whether my previous - and possibly long-winded - posts bleating about chaincase leaks might have something to do with the fact that the clutch hub/chainwheel assembly are definitely at the extreme aft end of the aperture, thus allowing oil a better chance to egress from here. Mmmm...

itma · Post by **itma** » Sun Apr 29, 2012 10:59 pm

barking up the wrong tree, I'm afraid.

there should be very little oil in the chaincase anyway, just enough to wet the chain at its lowest point ie 6 o/c on the clutch chain wheel.

then the speed at which it is flung round by the chain will keep it well clear of that hole which is why AMC never put an oilseal there.and why there is a little gutter just above the engine sprocket.

either you have extra links added or the chain is just plain simple shagged out

another cheapo chain?Edited by - itma on 29 Apr 2012 10:00:03 PM

mind you, as the previous owner could'nt work out the right way up for the cylinder base nuts I suggest he had no idea what chain to fit, nor cared?Edited by - itma on 29 Apr 2012 10:02:21 PM

Mckorkins · Post by **Mckorkins** » Mon Apr 30, 2012 12:06 am

I think in fairness to the previous owner, Ken, there is every chance that the wrong length chain was ordered as a replacement. By the look of it, I don't think it's knackered. Anyway, it's interesting what you say about the amount of oil in the chaincase and I'll make sure it's not flooded with the stuff. Frankly, I can see little logical reason for having oil in there in the first place, rather than two well-lubricated chains, which have previously been boiled in chain grease (I still have a tin of the stuff, which my wife refuses to let me heat up on the hob. I wonder why?). After all, the rear chain is treated similarly and is open to the elements, unlike those enclosed in the chaincase. The clutch hub rollers should, in theory, be perfectly serviceable for ages if they are coated in a suitable grease, like any other bearing that isn't subject to extreme heat. It would be a question of making sure that the thick/thin washers on either side of the race are in good nick. Any thoughts?

dave16mct · Post by **dave16mct** » Mon Apr 30, 2012 12:22 am

You need oil in the chaincase to lubricate the chains,sprockets, clutch rollers and the engine shock absorber. You don't want any grease in there.

Mckorkins · Post by **Mckorkins** » Mon Apr 30, 2012 1:51 pm

There is an old saying: .

Answer a fool according to his folly, lest he be wise in his own conceit.

I think you've all done pretty well on that score. I forgot about the engine shock absorber, for instance!Edited by - Mckorkins on 30 Apr 2012 2:03:43 PM

rex.webb · Post by **rex.webb** » Mon Apr 30, 2012 2:50 pm

The chains also go round a lot faster than the rear one .Centifugall force would throws the Grease off ?.
Ride with CARE and LIVE LONG to ENJOY your Bikes and Scooters .
Insured with Perer James.